Where Bulgaria Began

Section 1

The Ancient Capitals — Pliska & Veliki Preslav

Two of the most important cities in early medieval Europe lie within a short drive of Shumen. Between them, Pliska and Veliki Preslav witnessed the creation of a European superpower, the adoption of Christianity, and the birth of the alphabet you are reading about right now.

Pliska — The First Capital (681–893 AD)

In 681 AD, Khan Asparuh led the Bulgar tribes across the Danube, defeated the Byzantine army, and established the First Bulgarian Empire with its capital at Pliska. What began as a sprawling military camp covering an astonishing 23 square kilometres gradually transformed into a stone citadel worthy of a great power.

The centrepiece was the Great Basilica — 102 metres long and one of the largest churches in the entire medieval Balkans. When Khan Boris I converted Bulgaria to Christianity in 864 AD, this was where the new faith took root. Today, the ruins are an open-air museum where you can walk among palace foundations, defensive walls, and the footprint of that enormous basilica. Entry costs just a few euros, and you will often have the place nearly to yourself.

Veliki Preslav — The Golden Capital (893–971 AD)

When Tsar Simeon the Great moved the capital to Preslav in 893 AD, he was making a statement. Preslav was not a military camp — it was a civilisation. Arab geographer Ibn Rusta described it as rivalling Constantinople in splendour. This was Bulgaria's Golden Age: a period of extraordinary literary, artistic, and architectural achievement.

The crown jewel was the Round Church, also known as the Golden Church. Its painted ceramic tiles — vivid greens, blues, and golds depicting saints, animals, and geometric patterns — represent some of the finest decorative art of the early medieval period. You can see beautifully preserved examples in the Veliki Preslav Archaeological Museum, which sits beside the ruins.

Timeline of the Ancient Capitals

Section 2

The Cyrillic Alphabet — Born Here

You might associate Cyrillic with Russia, but the alphabet was created right here in the Shumen region. Over 250 million people use it daily, and it all started in Preslav.

In the late 9th century, scholars at the Preslav Literary School developed the Cyrillic alphabet to replace the complex Glagolitic script that Saints Cyril and Methodius had created. The new script was simpler, more practical, and based heavily on Greek uncial letters — making it far easier to learn and reproduce.

The decisive moment came at the Council of Preslav in 893 AD, which declared Old Church Slavonic (written in the new Cyrillic script) as the official language of the Bulgarian state and church. This was a revolutionary act — it replaced Greek in all official matters, giving Bulgaria a distinct cultural identity separate from Byzantium.

Today, Cyrillic is the third official script of the European Union and is used by more than 250 million people across a dozen countries, from Serbia to Mongolia. Every time you see those distinctive letters on a Bulgarian road sign, you are looking at Shumen's most far-reaching export.

Section 3

The Madara Rider — UNESCO World Heritage

Carved into a sheer 100-metre limestone cliff face, 23 metres above the ground, the Madara Rider is the only known large-scale medieval rock relief in all of Europe. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979.

The relief depicts a horseman spearing a lion while his dog runs alongside. Three Greek inscriptions beside the figure chronicle events from the reigns of Khan Tervel (701–718 AD), Khan Kormesiy, and Khan Omurtag. The carving itself is dated to the early 8th century — when Anglo-Saxon England was still building in wood and thatch.

In 2008, Bulgarians voted the Madara Rider as the symbol of Bulgaria, and it appears on the Bulgarian euro coins that entered circulation in January 2026. It is, quite literally, the face of the nation.

Section 4

The Shumen Fortress & City Landmarks

Shumen itself is not merely a base for visiting ancient sites — the city has its own extraordinary landmarks spanning three millennia, from Thracian fortifications to Brutalist monuments.

Shumen Fortress

3,000+ years of fortification

One of the longest continuously fortified sites in Europe. Thracians built the first walls, Romans expanded them, Byzantines strengthened them, and Bulgarians crowned it with 28 towers during the Second Bulgarian Empire. The fortress sits in the nature park above the city, surrounded by ancient beech forest. Free entry, stunning sunset views.

Tombul Mosque

1740–1744 • Bulgaria's largest

The Tombul Mosque is the largest in Bulgaria and the second-largest on the Balkans. Built during the Ottoman Tulip Period (1718–1730s aesthetics), it features a 25-metre dome, a 40-metre minaret, an elegant courtyard with a fountain, and exquisite calligraphy. It remains an active place of worship and is open to respectful visitors.

Founders Monument

1981 • 52 metres tall

The Monument to the Founders of the Bulgarian State is a 52-metre Brutalist colossus perched on a hilltop, visible from 30 km away. Reach it via 1,300 concrete steps. Inside: 21 colossal sculptures and the largest outdoor mosaic in Europe. Love it or hate it, it is unforgettable — Brutalism at its most ambitious.

Section 5

Shumen Plateau Nature Park

Rising directly above the city, the Shumen Plateau is 3,930 hectares of dense forest, rare wildflowers, cave systems, and well-marked trails. It is Shumen's back garden — and one of the best-kept natural secrets in Bulgaria.

The park covers a limestone plateau with 90% forest cover, predominantly oak and beech. The Bukaka Reserve protects ancient Balkan beech trees — gnarled, moss-covered giants that have never been logged. In spring, the forest floor erupts with wildflowers: the park hosts over 550 plant species, including 14 species of wild orchid.

Birdwatchers will find over 200 species recorded in the park, including golden eagles, eagle owls, black storks, and semi-collared flycatchers. Mammals include wild boar, roe deer, red foxes, and several species of bat in the cave systems.

Biserna Cave (Pearl Cave)

Hidden beneath the plateau lies Biserna Cave — 2,716 metres of explored passages decorated with stalactites, stalagmites, and the “cave pearls” that give it its name. Access is seasonal and requires a guide; enquire at the park information centre in the city. It is a genuine adventure — not a sanitised tourist cave.

Hiking & Cycling Trails

The park has seven marked hiking trails (M1–M7) and several cycling routes, ranging from gentle forest walks to full-day ridge traverses. Here are the highlights:

Section 6

Osmar — Rock Monasteries & Pelin Wine

At the foot of the Shumen Plateau lies the village of Osmar — home to medieval monks who carved churches into sheer cliffs, and to a centuries-old winemaking tradition that produces one of Bulgaria's most distinctive drinks.

The Rock Monasteries

Between the 12th and 14th centuries, Hesychast monks — followers of a mystical Christian tradition that sought union with God through silence and solitary prayer — carved a network of chapels, cells, and passages into the limestone cliffs above Osmar. These are not neat, tidy ruins: they are raw, atmospheric, and profoundly moving.

The monks chose these remote cliff faces deliberately. Hesychasm taught that divine light could be perceived through extreme isolation and meditative prayer, and these vertiginous perches were about as isolated as you could get. Some cells are accessible only by ladders or narrow ledges. The surviving frescoes, faded but still visible, depict saints and biblical scenes in the distinct style of the Second Bulgarian Empire.

Nearby, “The Eye” (Okoto) is a natural rock formation — a perfect ring eroded through the cliff face — that frames the sky like a giant stone pupil. It is a short walk from the monasteries and well worth the detour.

Osmar Pelin Wine

Pelin is a herb-infused wine unique to Bulgaria, and the Osmar variant is widely considered the finest. The tradition stretches back centuries — local legend claims that when Khan Krum ordered all vineyards in Bulgaria destroyed in the 9th century (as part of his anti-alcohol laws), he spared Osmar's vines because the Pelin was too good to lose.

The wine is still made the old way: local grapes are fermented, then steeped in massive 5-tonne oak barrels with a carefully guarded blend of over 30 wild herbs — including wormwood (pelin in Bulgarian, hence the name), thyme, wild mint, and yarrow. The herbs steep for exactly 45 days. The result is a complex, aromatic wine with a bitter-herbal finish that grows on you rapidly.

How Pelin Wine Is Made

Section 7

Living in Shumen as a Brit

So you have seen the ancient ruins and tasted the Pelin wine. But what is it actually like to live here? Here is the honest picture.

Cost of Living

Shumen is significantly cheaper than Sofia or Varna, and astronomically cheaper than the UK. A one-bedroom flat in the city centre rents for around €150–250 per month. A three-course meal at a decent restaurant costs €8–15. Monthly utilities (heating, electricity, water, internet) run to roughly €80–120 in winter, less in summer. Bulgaria adopted the Euro in January 2026, so there is no currency exchange hassle.

The Language Barrier

Let us be blunt: Shumen is not Sofia or Varna. English is not widely spoken outside a handful of hotels and the university. At the municipality office, the doctor's surgery, and the supermarket checkout, you will need at least basic Bulgarian. Younger people tend to speak some English, but the older generation — and they are the ones running most of the bureaucracy — largely do not.

The Expat Community

Shumen's British expat community is small but growing. It is not the Costa del Sol — you will not find English pubs on every corner. Instead, you will find a close-knit group of people who chose Shumen deliberately: for its affordability, its history, its unspoilt countryside, and its lack of mass tourism. Most long-term Brits here speak at least basic Bulgarian and have integrated into local life.

Education & Culture

Shumen is a university town. The Konstantin Preslavsky University of Shumen (named after the great medieval capital) has over 7,000 students, which gives the city a younger, more cosmopolitan feel than you might expect. There is a good theatre, a regional history museum, and Arena Shumen — a modern multi-purpose venue that hosts concerts, sports, and cultural events.

Getting Around

The Hemus Motorway connects Shumen to both Sofia (roughly 3.5 hours west) and Varna (about 1 hour east). The Black Sea coast is 80 km away — close enough for day trips. Shumen has a small railway station with services to Varna, Sofia, and Ruse. For daily life, most expats drive; the city itself is compact enough to walk in good weather.

Read Our Other Guides

We have written detailed guides on the practical aspects of British life in Bulgaria: